Sabato De Sarno Elevates Gucci with 'Casual Grandeur' in Bold New Collection

A year into his tenure as Gucci’s creative director, Sabato De Sarno is refining his vision for the iconic brand with a formula he calls “casual grandeur.”

After early reviews of his debut collections praised the clothes but craved more personality, De Sarno had something to prove with this latest show. With Gucci's sales down 20% year-on-year in the second quarter of 2024, it was clear that the brand needed not just style but charisma to match its storied name in Italian culture.

In a front row packed with stars, including tennis player Jannik Sinner and legendary singer Debbie Harry, the show opened with understated elegance. A charcoal bomber jacket zipped to the throat, paired with matching trousers draped over white trainers, set the tone for a laid-back start. But the show quickly gained momentum.

Nods to Gucci’s past came through in black and white maxidresses with side slits and gold metal accents, reminiscent of Tom Ford’s transformative 1990s Gucci era. There were also Jackie Kennedy Onassis-inspired looks, complete with silk headscarves and oversized sunglasses paired with popped-collar knits and short skirts. De Sarno’s take on Jackie O’s iconic Capri vacation style added an effortless, yet luxurious touch, mixing in Tom Ford’s sleek influence for evening glamour. Together, this juxtaposition embodied the essence of "casual grandeur."

De Sarno’s bold take on Gucci’s signature colors is also making waves. He’s already swapped classic poppy red for a deep oxblood, now a hallmark of his collections. For this season, he replaced the brand’s traditional racing green with neon lime, a standout choice that shone brightly on lace party dresses and a statement car coat trimmed with olive leather piping.

With this collection, De Sarno is not just revitalizing Gucci—he's imprinting his own modern vision on the brand’s heritage. The result is a fresh, unexpected approach to luxury that feels both nostalgic and daringly new.